Fitting the Flames
So, I finally coerced my husband to stand still long enough to really build a good toile - or waste-fabric pattern. I used the corner of the fabric to pin to his braies, then pinned snuggly down the back of his leg. When I got down to the ankle, I took out my scissors and slit the fabric from the top of the maleolus (pointy part of the ankle) to the floor on either side. You have to do this, in order to pin the fabric together all the way to the floor at the heel. Then I cut around the foot, leaving about a 1/2 inch all the way around.
Now it should be mentioned that it is REALLY REALLY important to try to slide the toile off once the back seam is completely pinned. I had to loosen the pinning at the ankle repeatedly till he could slide it off. This could have been a major disaster - hosen that won't go on! Once you're sure then come on and off at will, draw the seam lines in with a pen, unpin the toile, and cut it out with whatever seam allowance you've decided on.
Next, I made him stand on a piece of paper and traced his feet, made a composite of the two, then cut out my pattern piece, adding another 1/2 inch of seam allowance - I actually gave myself a smidgen more, for error. I COULD have made pattern pieces for the triangular gussets that go on either side, but couldn't be bothered.
The toile can at this point just be laid on the fabric and cut out. Or you can make a paper pattern. I recommend the brown kraft paper available at business supply stores for wrapping packages. Cheap, durable, and easy to use. Lay the toile for the upper on the bias - you'll need the stretch. Foot and gussets are somewhat less critical. I cut the gussets on a bias and the foot on the straight grain.
I like to full my wool - in the washing machine, because I'm lazy. Hot wash, gold rinse will usually do a nice job. However, if you get distracted by a rambunctious toddler you will sometimes go from fulled to felt. Not a huge issue, just a little thicker and with a rougher finish than I intended. *sigh* On the bright side, no finish is needed on the upper edges, since it's not going to unravel. Which brings to mind another tip: Use your selvedges - one less edge to be finished off!
The solid leg was easy. I sewed up the back seam first, in a basic running stitch. I took a little backstitch occasionally for stability. That done, I went back and whipped the seam allowance down on each side. This gave me a nice, strong join. Then I sewed the triangular gussets to the foot, again with a small straight stitch. Since I didn't have much of a seam allowance this time, I whipped the edges.
Last, I pinned the foot to the upper all the way around, adjusting as necessary with the extra fabric I had cut. Then I whipped the edge of the upper to the foot piece, then turned the edge of the foot piece up and whipped it to the upper. Turn inside out and viola!
The "flaming" leg requires a bit more planning. Use the same toile, but turn it over for the other leg. The foot is cut of red wool. The upper of white wool. I cut the entire upper, then laid a piece of red wool over the top, and pinned it back on to my husband. From this point I could adjust where the flames should go, and draw them on. Then unpin the fabric from the model. (Don't stick him - it makes them surly). Next, baste the red wool onto the white. Then baste some more. Then more. Baste up each flame and in between them, but never cross the lines.
In an effort to achieve a stable applique in VERY soft wool, I cut only a little of the excess away at a time. In this case, 1/4 inch away from the flame as it was drawn. Then I turned under 1/4", and sewed it down with tiny stitches. Continue all the way around. At the bottom, moving from one flame to another will require you to slit the fabric to the stitching line. Just tack it down very well.
Once the applique is complete, turn the piece over and decide how much of the white wool you want to trim away. I removed all of the "vamp" or upper part of the foot, because I wanted Richard to be able to wear shoes comfortably. However, the red wool I used was very much softer than the white, so I did NOT cut away the fabric under the flames, since I didn't want them stretching out of shape.
Pictures soon, I hope! (No digital camera, so I have to go down and have them developed, scan them in, etc.
I did NOT add any points to these hose. I intend for him to pin them to his braies with penannular brooches like those found at Wisby. Possibly substituting safety pins if I get the entire ensemble done for 12th Night - this weekend.
Now it should be mentioned that it is REALLY REALLY important to try to slide the toile off once the back seam is completely pinned. I had to loosen the pinning at the ankle repeatedly till he could slide it off. This could have been a major disaster - hosen that won't go on! Once you're sure then come on and off at will, draw the seam lines in with a pen, unpin the toile, and cut it out with whatever seam allowance you've decided on.
Next, I made him stand on a piece of paper and traced his feet, made a composite of the two, then cut out my pattern piece, adding another 1/2 inch of seam allowance - I actually gave myself a smidgen more, for error. I COULD have made pattern pieces for the triangular gussets that go on either side, but couldn't be bothered.
The toile can at this point just be laid on the fabric and cut out. Or you can make a paper pattern. I recommend the brown kraft paper available at business supply stores for wrapping packages. Cheap, durable, and easy to use. Lay the toile for the upper on the bias - you'll need the stretch. Foot and gussets are somewhat less critical. I cut the gussets on a bias and the foot on the straight grain.
I like to full my wool - in the washing machine, because I'm lazy. Hot wash, gold rinse will usually do a nice job. However, if you get distracted by a rambunctious toddler you will sometimes go from fulled to felt. Not a huge issue, just a little thicker and with a rougher finish than I intended. *sigh* On the bright side, no finish is needed on the upper edges, since it's not going to unravel. Which brings to mind another tip: Use your selvedges - one less edge to be finished off!
The solid leg was easy. I sewed up the back seam first, in a basic running stitch. I took a little backstitch occasionally for stability. That done, I went back and whipped the seam allowance down on each side. This gave me a nice, strong join. Then I sewed the triangular gussets to the foot, again with a small straight stitch. Since I didn't have much of a seam allowance this time, I whipped the edges.
Last, I pinned the foot to the upper all the way around, adjusting as necessary with the extra fabric I had cut. Then I whipped the edge of the upper to the foot piece, then turned the edge of the foot piece up and whipped it to the upper. Turn inside out and viola!
The "flaming" leg requires a bit more planning. Use the same toile, but turn it over for the other leg. The foot is cut of red wool. The upper of white wool. I cut the entire upper, then laid a piece of red wool over the top, and pinned it back on to my husband. From this point I could adjust where the flames should go, and draw them on. Then unpin the fabric from the model. (Don't stick him - it makes them surly). Next, baste the red wool onto the white. Then baste some more. Then more. Baste up each flame and in between them, but never cross the lines.
In an effort to achieve a stable applique in VERY soft wool, I cut only a little of the excess away at a time. In this case, 1/4 inch away from the flame as it was drawn. Then I turned under 1/4", and sewed it down with tiny stitches. Continue all the way around. At the bottom, moving from one flame to another will require you to slit the fabric to the stitching line. Just tack it down very well.
Once the applique is complete, turn the piece over and decide how much of the white wool you want to trim away. I removed all of the "vamp" or upper part of the foot, because I wanted Richard to be able to wear shoes comfortably. However, the red wool I used was very much softer than the white, so I did NOT cut away the fabric under the flames, since I didn't want them stretching out of shape.
Pictures soon, I hope! (No digital camera, so I have to go down and have them developed, scan them in, etc.
I did NOT add any points to these hose. I intend for him to pin them to his braies with penannular brooches like those found at Wisby. Possibly substituting safety pins if I get the entire ensemble done for 12th Night - this weekend.
posted by Holly | 8:55 AM
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