Delving into the Stash

Photos of the hosen-in-progress still to come, along with shots of the cote that will go with them. I'm trying to be as authentic as I reasonable can, whilst creating a kit with a bit of a "wow" factor - mostly to go with those flames.

The cote will be cut from the same red wool as the flames on the hose. Unfortunately, I don't have quite enough for long sleeves, nor do I have quite enough buttons. So I'm going to create some "cheater" undersleeves - a set of undersleeves that tie into the armscye, giving the impression of an undertunic that isn't really there. It's also a comfort issue, since most winter events in our area are indoors. Two layers of wool would get a little warm.

I've also chosen to embroider the sleeves, hem, and collar. I used perle cotton - largely because it's cheap, its easy to work, and it makes a bold statement. This wool is much to furry to use stranded silk, or very fine wool. Heavy silk twist gets quite pricey. I took one of my favorite manuscript whitework patterns and adapted it into my embroidery. An example can be found at the Ritman Library, and is pictured above.

The undergarments are of a linen/rayon blend. I used Master Ranthulfr's instructions for creating the braies: www.randyasplund.com/browse/medieval/chausse1.html

The shirt is a simple St. Louis shirt, as drawn in Elizabeth Crowfoot's "Textiles and Clothing," one of the Museum of London books.

Yes, I know pure linen would be more correct - and likely easier to work. The blend was in my stash. In fact, at this point, let me explain the Fabric Stash to the unintiated. The stash has several components, though it can be an ever changing mass.

1. The Staple Stash - this includes those staples that you keep on hand at all times to spare yourself the aggravation of running out at 10 PM the night before the project needs to be finished. For most sewers, this includes interfacing, black thread, white thread, snaps, hooks and eyes, buttons, elastic, cotton broadcloth and muslins. The SCA stash also tends to include white linen, black wool, metal buttons, perle cotton, and a few other sundries. This is the most volatile part of the stash, and tends to have lost and not re-acquired whatever bit is needed NOW.

2. The "Waiting for Love" Stash - these are cuts of fabric that have a project they are intended for. However, they await the addition of another specific fabric needed for the project, and so accumulate over time. With enough time, these pieces can move into category 3:

3. The "What-the-hell-was-this-for?" Stash - a conglomeration of bits and pieces whose original purpose is unknown or abandoned. Frequently filled with fabric bought as a newbie, before we learn better. Often includes satins, panne' velvets, and poly blends of heat-stroke inducing natures. Most of this will end up in a silent auction of "generously gifted" to some unsuspecting newbie - to enter their stash.

4. The "I'll Find a Use for it Someday" Stash - this has two subsets. The first is fabric bought so cheaply, it gets free room and board until it finds a purpose in life. The second is fabric so lovely that it can stick around until an outfit is created around it. The most exquisite pieces in subsection 2 have a tendency to become so worshipped that they never leave the stash at all.

While my husband cannot identify the specific section to which stash items belong, he has the sense to steer clear of anything that is not OBVIOUSLY being retained for use in fighting kit.

Now... off to sort through the stash in search of something to line another garment with.... where was that red broadcloth, anyway?

In The Beginning....

Like most people who are involved with medieval reenactment - in my case, the SCA - I started out with some very basic outfits pieced together as best I could. Not due to deficiencies in my sewing skills so much as a lack of understanding of the differences in modern dressmaking techniques as compared to historical sewing. But I'm getting better with each outfit I make - even if I AM still on the nosebleed segment of the learning curve.

I'm a sponge, by nature, and belong to more e-mail lists than is really good for me. One of them specializes in 14th century culture, and so it was on that list that the recent on-line availability of the Lacelot du Lac manuscript was announced. I filed away the information, intending to pull it out someday when I was in the mood. Until the discussion turned toward a pair of "flaming hose." Hmmmmm. I pulled up the image in question.

It didn't take me long to decide that THIS would be my next project. My poor, beleagured husband (AKA The 14th Century Dress-Up Doll) would be suitable tricked out by 12th Night.

For my pattern, I chose to use the instructions in "The Medieval Tailor's Assitant" by Sarah Thursfield.

Note: If you don't have this book, and you are at all interested in mid-medieval period costuming, I suggest you start searching for a copy. Word has it that the volume is out of print, and unavailable from the publisher. I'd consider it a must-have, not because the patterns are perfect, but because it's a darned good jumping-off point.

I rumaged through my stash and found a little white wool, and some navy. Not enough of either to manage a pair of hosen. But hey, a little parti-color never hurt anybody. All of the wool was fulled in the washing machine. At this point, being the mother of a toddler made life a little difficult. Whilst entertaining my daughter, the white wool went past fulled to downright felt - which I probably could have avoided had I been paying attention.

To this, I added some red wool blend fabric that had a very soft hand, and unfortunately didn't full very well.

My fabric prepared, I made a toile of the hosen from some cheap fabric. I can't stress enough how important it is to pin up the toile, then try to slip it off. I had to loosen the pinning in the ankle considerably to allow my husband to get them off. I sewed up the toile, checked it for fit again, then drew in all the seamlines and cut it apart. A pattern was born. Unfortunately, pictures of the process didn't come out so well.

Next I'll try to get pictures of the flames appliqued to the hosen.